Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract
Department of Cosmetic Chemistry, Faculty of Cosmetology, Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, 00-252 Warsaw, Poland
A Ratz-lyko Department of Cosmetic Chemistry, Faculty of Cosmetology, Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, 00-252 Warsaw Poland E-mail: [email protected]
Centella asiaticaextract is a rich source of natural bioactive substances, triterpenoid saponins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpenic steroids, amino acids and sugars. Thus, many scavenging free radicals, exhibit antiinflammatory activity and affect on the stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the in vivo moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water emulsion cream and hydrogel) containing different concentrations of Centella asiaticaextract. The study was conducted over four weeks on a group of 25 volunteers after twice a day application of cosmetic formulations with Centella asiaticaextract (2.5 and 5%, w/w) on their forearms. The measurement of basic skin parameters (stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function) was performed once a week. The in vivo antiinflammatory activity based on the methyl nicotinate model of microinflammation in human skin was evaluated after four weeks application of tested formulations. In vivo tests formulations containing 5% of Centella asiaticaextract showed the best efficacy in improving skin moisture by increase of skin surface hydration state and decrease in transepidermal water loss as well as exhibited antiinflammatory properties based on the methyl nicotinate model of microinflammation in human skin. Comparative tests conducted by corneometer, tewameter and chromameter showed that cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiaticaextract have the moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties.